Sunday

Giulia and I rose early this morning, with Rebecca picking us up to take us climbing with some of their friends. we drove to Gemona, a Friulian village sitting right at the edge of dolomites. I’d never climbed a real cliff before, and though the idea scared me no end, with Giulia’s help I managed and had a great time. I’ve never done anything like it before, and it felt nice to overcome a fear - I don’t think I’ve done this in a while.

we made carbonara when we returned home. Max bought us gelato, before I decided to ride the bike before we lost the sun. the village is as I remember it, villas and vineyards and very blue skies. I rode down a street sharing the surname of my grandparents. it’s surreal to think that they too once rode their bikes down the same lanes as I do here now.

pizza for dinner - something with mushrooms and sausages. full and tired and grateful to be here. missing people and trying to find peace here. <<

back in the village

I slept well last night, enjoying the sound of rain on the tiles of the roof. waking in a home so safe and full of nostalgia is a wonderful feeling after weeks abroad. after showering, Max drove me to Sergio’s shed, where he was in the process of making wine with his son-in-law Daniel and daughter Rebecca, my cousin who I had not seen since 2010. after years living in England, Rebecca has acquired a fantastic British accent, and it feels wonderful and simultaneously odd to be spending time together as adults now after over 12 years apart.

Max made us lasagna for lunch, which we enjoyed with formaggio and vegetables. after returning from work (schools are open here on Saturdays!), Giulia rode with me through the village into Domanins, where we visited Zia Susie and Oscar. being back on the bikes makes me feel like a child again. some of my fondest memories of travelling all those years ago are of riding with my brothers and cousins through the village, and I’ve promised myself to make the most of Valeria’s bike and the weather whilst I’m here.

after returning through the backroads, we were greeted by Zia Domenica back home, before Rebecca and Daniel arrived to cook us panang curry for dinner (as a non-local from Newcastle Upon Tyne, Dan enjoys diversifying the menu on offer within the village). we drank wine made by the family and laughed for hours. only now I’ve hit the pillow so I realise just how tired I am. it’s wonderful being back - I have already been spoiled, and am trying not to take this care for granted. <<

Baselga to Rauscedo

after a beautiful breakfast (pistacchio croissant and chai) in Trento, Giulia and Eleanora bid me farewell from the station. enjoying the lunch packed with love by Giulia and stuffed with excess sicilian dolci by Tatiana I made my way to the home of my grandparents. the countryside grew more familiar, the otherworldly mountains of Giulia’s region giving way eventually to the flat farmland of vineyards in which I’d spent a good deal of time with my brothers as children.

Max and Valeria greated me with hugs at Casarsa station. Giulia was sitting at the kitchen table when I arrived. she started shaking her head in disbelief, it was pretty special to see her face light up - she couldn’t believe I was there. Danilo was also stunned when he arrived home from work, mentioning that when he saw my shoes in the hallway he thought they might be mine but dismissed the idea as impossible.

Giulia and Danilo both had commitments tonight, so I enjoyed the evening relaxing with my Italian parents. Max prepared a lovely soup for dinner, and insisted I eat as much cheese as I want. as Valeria and I washed the dishes he ducked into the village to buy use gelato for dessert before conking out on the carpet in the lounge in front of the television.

this house is one in which I’ve spent enough time for it to feel like home despite my incapacity to truly learn italian (I promise I’m trying my best). as per last time, it feels surreal to be back, and will take time to make sense. but for now I’m grateful to have such a precious oasis in which I can rest and connect with parts of my life I have missed. <<

casa Piruccio

I am in awe of the kindness of Giulia and her family who have for a second time now opened their home to me as if I were one of their own. picking me up from my delayed bus, Giulia drove me up the winding roads late at night back to the oasis that is casa Piruccio in the gorgeous village Baselga. awaiting my arrival were her parents Tatiana and Claudio, equipped with ‘welcome home’ signs and hugs. I felt spoiled the second I stepped inside, Claudio insisting on taking my bags upstairs for me, and Tatiana heating up a pre-made meal for me.

after a much needed sleep, Giulia spoiled me with toast (Tatiana’s homemade apricot jam and the delicious nocciolato) before showing me around Baselga - the village that has been her world for as long as she can remember. we walked to the lake she once swam in with Amelia when she lived here for school back in late 2015, a whole life ago.

being with Giulia again brings me so much joy. I laugh so easily in her company, and I relish every story and thought she is willing to share. after a delicious ‘budget pasta’ (a sugo of pomodoro and tuna) we took the bus in to Trento, where we explored the castle before catching up with Giulia’s partner for gelato.

Tatiana spoiled us with a feast of lasagna, cheeses and vegetables for dinner. I tried to use my broken italian to express my gratitude for the generosity the whole family has been so kind in showering me with.

Sarà was home from work in the evening too, and we had the chance to catch up on her new job and what’s been happening in her world. I drew her, Giulia and Tatiana before bed.

a beautiful family so willing to embrace me regardless of the time and distance between us. I will not forget the kindness I treasure here. my heart is full in this house. <<

‘if we were villains’

first read of the trip completed on my bus from Bologna to Trento - the dramatic debut by M L Rios. big thanks to Elowen for such a memorable novel. the end has torn my heart. a new favourite for sure. <<

leaving Florence

this city surprised me in wonderful ways. I didn’t think I’d fall for it - the hype had been ridiculous - but here I am on my bus, sad to be leaving despite the constant currents of tourists and obnoxious drivers.

to me this city is a little magical, and I’ve promised myself I’ll be back someday. I’m glad I mad myself make the time for it despite being out of the way and my wavering tolerance for big cities. onto Trento and familiar faces I’ve missed. <<

David

after charging my phone at a cheap eat over lunch, I walked to the Academia Gallery. I’d heard David was tall, but I doubt much could have prepared me for just how magnificent Michelangelo’s muse truly was.

I was blown away and moved by this monumental piece of art in a way I haven’t been in quite some time.

at his feet I sat and read about his history. I looked into his eyes and thought of the millions who have gazed into them in adoration for centuries now. David stands proud as generations age and trends pass. David stands tall as monarchs die and bombs fall. David outlives all of us.

his beauty still astounds me. a highlight of my trip so far. <<